chicago sartorialist

CHANEL: Pre-fall 2012

2011-12-07T15:40:00.000-08:00

I have no idea why there are now pre-fall and pre-spring collections, it seems like madness that that even exists! That aside, this epic fashion show by Chanel is another feast for the senses; even via video.

G.V.G.V. S/S 12

2011-12-07T08:35:00.000-08:00

G.V.G.V is a very different flavor on the Japanese fashion scene. Check out more pics and a short review on StyleBubble.

Lancôme + Yayoi Kusama Juicy Tubes

2011-04-06T09:09:00.000-07:00

I'm in love with these new limited edition Juicy Tubes by Yayoi Kusama. She is an amazing artist that I've followed for years and this is the perfect example of a successful artist/brand collaboration. Not only are they beautifully designed with cute, quirky illustrations but they are also earth friendly!

"They teamed up with super-big-in-Japan artist Yayoi Kusama for a limited-edition line of display-worthy, mini Juicy Tubes. But besides being adorned with Kusama's adorably dotted and nature-inspired artwork, the honey and shea butter-infused glosses are also 100% natural origin and preservative-free. That means the formula, flavors (hazelnut cacao, apricot, honey, raspberry, vanilla, and grapefruit), and pigments are all naturally based. Plus, the Juicy Tube's cardboard packaging are certified eco-friendly by the Forest Stewardship Council" (via Refinery 29)

Mary Katrantzou: Fall 2001 RTW

2011-03-08T10:56:00.000-08:00

Mary Katrantzou is my kind of girl. She's young, talented and truly a bold, new voice in fashion. So I found it very fitting to feature her on International Women's Day! I love her latest collection of elaborately patterned and structured silhouettes. Check out the full slideshow of the collection here.

Also, here is an excerpt from her designer profile on the London Fashion Week site.

Origin: Athens, Greece

Design background: Mary attended Rhode Island School of Design and then completed both her BA and MA at Central Saint Martins. She has previously worked for Sophia Kokosalaki and freelanced for Bill Blass, amongst other designers.

What are your design signatures? “A hyperrealist aesthetic, bold graphics and industrial jewellery.”

How would you describe the Mary Katrantzou woman? “She has a liberated spirit and a strong sense of style.”
What is your trademark piece? “For spring/summer 2011 it was the lampshade skirt.”

Name three things that are inspiring you for autumn/winter 2011:“Diana Vreeland, coromandel screens and the interwar period.”

What’s next for your brand? “Autumn/winter 2011 and a collaboration with Atelier Swarovski.”

What music is playing in your studio this season? “Erasure.”

Zac Posen: Fall 2011 RTW

2011-03-04T08:14:00.000-08:00

A gorgeous collection from Zac Posen that is perfect for any femme fatale. I love the sultry, flowing, body conscious silhouettes that mix romantic flutter with edgy materials or cuts. Check out photographs of the complete collection on the runway here.

Guangzhou Opera House: Zaha Hadid Architects

2011-03-03T09:39:00.000-08:00

I've loved Zaha Hadid since my early years of studying architecture at the University of Toronto. I was so excited to see these photographs of her latest breath taking project. The Guangzhou Opera House, located in Guangdon province, China, was designed to resemble the forms of two pebbles on the bank of the Pearl River.

You can check out more photographs of this stunning new structure and read more information here.

Chen Man

2011-03-01T10:28:00.000-08:00

After another very long hiatus, I'm back! And what better way to start up again then with Chen Man, a super star fashion photographer in China. Check out her amazingly beautiful images that push the wonderful creative limits of the fashion dreamland.

Check out her blog and you can also become a fan of her work on Facebook and stay up to date on her work.

Elie Top for Baccarat: Bouchons de Carafe

2010-03-29T11:10:00.001-07:00

I love this incredible collection by Elie Top for Baccarat. Here are some excerpts about Top's inspiration from Baccarat's site as well as a gorgeous video directed by Benjamin Audour.

"For the first time, Baccarat, renowned for its unique expertise and bold creativity in the making of fine crystal, has turned to Elie Top, jewelry and accessories designer for prominent fashion houses. In their continued interest and support of talented young designers, Baccarat asked Elie Top to create a jewelry line interpreting the Baccarat spirit in his own way...

The collection draws masterfully on Baccarat’s design heritage with the "bouchon de carafe" motif. Its French name refers to the stoppers made for the fine crystal bottles that graced luxurious dining tables and elegant dressing tables in bygone days. Remarkable for their purity of line, these “stoppers” gleam with pristine reflections of light. After visiting a Baccarat exhibit of crystal brandy decanters and perfume bottles, all created between 1910 and 1920, Elie Top was inspired by those he admired most.

"I decided to go back to Baccarat’s roots”, said the designer,”for me, the name Baccarat suggests chandeliers, gleaming facets and French-style luxury. I aimed to revive these design codes, but with a touch of tongue-in-cheek humor. In French, one says that a diamond is "as big as a decanter stopper!”... “The collection is a light-hearted take on this expression, as well as a respectful tribute to Baccarat."

Jan Maarten Voskuil

2010-03-26T08:09:00.000-07:00

Thank you to Mike for introducing me to this beautiful work by Jan Maarten Voskuil. These are selections from two shows: Grip-No Grip and There Is No Point. I had a hard time selecting what to include in this post, check out his site to see more of his work.

Here is an excerpt from an interview with HUH. magazine based out of the UK:

"Do you call the pieces you hang on walls paintings or sculptures?

They are paintings. As sculptures they suck.

Why do they suck as sculptures?
They are paintings because that is what they are about. They are linen on stretchers with a little paint on, and they are about surface. In mathematics there is even a name for the kind of curved surface I make. They are called 'minimal surface'. I didn't know this at the beginning but I ran into the term a couple of years ago. Of course you can call them sculptures (about painting). I don't mind people to call it or interpret it differently than me, actually most people do. As a naturalistic painter many years ago I used to state that I wanted to prove the world was flat instead of round. Maybe now I state that painting is round instead of flat and of course nobody agrees.

You've had a lot of shows in recent years, does this affect your work?
It has two sides. Pressure makes cooking quicker and it's also exhausting. When I started curving the canvas 12 years ago I thought it was a statement one can do only once. For a couple of years I occasionally returned to this curving because I found some new way of doing it. Strangely, every work generates more than one idea or direction for new works, so, in the meantime I can see that I will be occupied with this practice for a pretty long time. I have better equipment and skills in the process now, so I can keep up a little with the demand, but it becomes critical and assistance is not really an option, because it does take skill to make these things. You are right that I also have to (re)consider the pace I am working at the moment. Take some time to reflect on things. Although I do reflect all the time actually."

Sophie Hulme: A/W 2010

2010-03-25T12:20:00.000-07:00

I love the presentation of Sophie Hulme's latest collection. They've numbered the elegant wooden hangers and placed the list on the wall which not only gets rid of extra paper used for printing but also makes it efficient for audience members to identify the specific pieces they love while creating a central, graphic wall.

My favorites so far are from her accessories: the armoured bow necklace, whistle necklace and the brass armoured tote bag. Check out her site to see more and download the look book.

Grégoire Alexandre

2010-02-04T08:17:00.000-08:00

Really amazing work, see more here. (via)

Angel Jackson

2010-02-03T14:35:00.000-08:00

"Launched in 2005 by sister duo Katie and Millie Smith, Angel Jackson is a leading British accessories label that has gone from strength to strength... The aim was to create an international fashion label that produced hand crafted products in ethical working conditions whilst maintaining highly stylish and glamorous accessories. To ensure this, all Angel Jackson products are produced in their own fair-trade workshops in Bali. " (via london fashion week)

Givenchy: Spring 2010 Haute Couture

2010-01-27T15:56:00.000-08:00

I just love Ricardo Tisci's latest Couture collection for Givenchy. I've included a few detail shots that showcase the amazing sculptural quality and beautiful detailing that can be lost by simply looking at an overall shot of a garment.

See the entire collection here.

Beijing Noodle No. 9

2010-01-25T07:54:00.000-08:00

Designed by design spirits, based out of Tokyo, Bejing Noodle No. 9 is a restaurant located in (of all places) Caesar's Palace in Las Vegas. I absolutely love the glowing, ethereal and ornate quality of the space contrasted with a very subtle, minimalist color palette and furniture/flooring. (via we heart)

Thanks to Randy for the link!

Yumi at Wacker + Dearborn

2010-01-21T11:01:00.000-08:00

I caught Yumi on a couple of days and loved both outfits for different reasons. First was her wonderful use of a very appropriate Chicago winter accessory: the scarf. Instead of the typical relaxed, thrown around the neck style, she's belted her printed scarf to create a long, lean silhouette reinforced by geometric prints and minimalist black and white. Her second outfit was black on black, which is always the fail safe plan. But the difference is in the details (as always). The belted, banded dress and amazing booties make this monochromatic outfit stand out.

Graham on Lake

2010-01-20T08:57:00.001-08:00

After a wonderful end to 2009, where things sort of came full circle, I'm excited to start fresh, new postings in 2010.

I spied sweet, smiley Graham on a quick errand over lunch. The first thing that caught my eye was the thick, cozy scarf that topped off a narrow silhouette. Then I noticed he had dressed in a gradient; one of my favorite things!

Aoi Kotsuhiroi

2009-11-11T08:48:00.000-08:00

These incredible rings by Aoi Kotsuhiroi are a combination of silk thread, Japanese urushi lacquer and a variety of stones such as black garnets, phantom and vanadinite crystals and black diamonds.

Available at NOT JUST A LABEL.

Vionnet: Resort 2010

2009-08-03T11:15:00.000-07:00

"Madeleine Vionnet (June 22, 1876 - March 2,1975) was a French fashion designer. Called the "Queen of the bias cut" and "the architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best-known today for her elegant Grecian-style dresses and for introducing the bias cut to the fashion world". (Wiki)

This Resort collection you're seeing is by Rodolfo Paglialunga who was a designer of womenswear at Prada for 13 years before coming over to Vionnet. I think it's gorgeous and it's obvious he's paying homage to Vionnet's past. Versatility was also "a key Vionnet innovation, so some of the frocks can be worn back to front, while the capelike sleeves of a shirtdress can be tied behind the back to create a different, more casual silhouette". (style.com)

I love that the collection has an array of color, from deep blacks to jewel tones to powdery pinks. Similarly, there are gorgeous gowns to slightly harder edged mini dresses and range of looks with flowing, gauzy materials to structured banding and gathering. What strikes me is the complexity of the collection yet it still achieves an overall unified feeling. This is huge since this flexibility means there is more likely to be a little something that appeals to everyone while maintaining the integrity of the brand. See the full collection here at Style.com.

Mia on Milwaukee

2009-08-01T09:18:00.001-07:00

Always cute, I love this outfit that Mia has put together. The shirt is a pretty take on a classic summer shirt, mashing pin stripes, seersucker and bold stripes together. Pairing it with a darker, slightly purple blue skirt and cinching it all in with a rich, textured brown belt makes the proportions very flattering. The red shoes are an adorable addition and make this outfit sing with personal style.

If she's not biking around the city on her pretty cruiser, you'll find stylish Mia at Brooklyn Industries.

Peter Pilotto

2009-08-01T08:47:00.000-07:00

This is a selection of beautiful looks from Peter Pilotto's last two collections. I love the shapes, textures and colors but I think the tall patent leather boots take away from some of the looks. Maybe a thinner silhouette of a boot would be more complimentary. It seems to overtake the elegance of the clothing as well as the gorgeous patterns and colors.

"Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos are the designers behind the Peter Pilotto label. Pilotto is half-Austrian, half-Italian and De Vos is half-Belgian, half-Peruvian. They met whilst studying at Antwerp's prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the year 2000.

Pilotto is focused toward textile and print whereas De Vos concentrates more on silhouette and drape. However the duo work beyond their individual perimeters to create something new, their process being very organic and beyond an integration of the two fields."

Kanye West: Paranoid video featuring Rihanna

2009-06-05T10:22:00.000-07:00

Overall, I think Kanye's videos are amazing. Given the generally boring state of music videos these days, Kanye's are refreshing, different and truly interesting to watch. I just love this latest video, Paranoid, directed by Nabil Elderkin. There is a ton of press for this video that centers around the use of Rihanna as the main character. Though all of the things written are true, she's stunning and it's a timely use of her given her personal life, I'm surprised that no one has written about the amazing aesthetic style of the video, the cultural quotes and the haunting qualities of the narrative. If I'm mistaken, please pass along a link to the article!

Objectified by Gary Hustwit

2009-04-15T13:24:00.000-07:00

"Objectified is a feature-length documentary about our complex relationship with manufactured objects and, by extension, the people who design them. It’s a look at the creativity at work behind everything from toothbrushes to tech gadgets. It’s about the designers who re-examine, re-evaluate and re-invent our manufactured environment on a daily basis. It’s about personal expression, identity, consumerism, and sustainability.

Through vérité footage and in-depth conversations, the film documents the creative processes of some of the world’s most influential product designers, and looks at how the things they make impact our lives. What can we learn about who we are, and who we want to be, from the objects with which we surround ourselves?" (from Objectifiedfilm.com)

Thanks to Nina for the link!

Mikimoto: Eternal Love Window Display

2009-04-07T12:15:00.000-07:00

I love the dramatic yet airy quality of this Mikimoto display. The blustery tornado of petals, mimicking the shape of a wing, draws the eye down to a beautiful sheet of stone (I believe that's what it is) where the jewelry is delicately displayed. I think it could do without the floating cherub with a fountain pen; this could be swapped for a little more accenting on the jewelry in the window in the form of height/color/lighting. (via NOTCOT)

Ronan + Erwan Bouroullec: Clouds + North Tiles for kvadrat

2009-03-10T08:17:00.000-07:00

Clouds and North Tiles are two products by my favorite industrial designers, the Bouroullec brothers, for kvadrat, an innovative textile company based in Denmark. Both Clouds and North Tiles are, well, tiles made up of a single element that are customizable by repeating, mixing and re-arranging.

Richard Hutten

2009-03-10T07:40:00.000-07:00

Richard Hutten's beautiful Silla Cloud chair, modeled after what appears to be the complex interaction of soap bubbles, is aluminum cast and nickel plated. (via notcot)

London Fashion Week: Richard Nicoll A/W 2009

2009-03-07T06:37:00.001-08:00

"With every season, Richard Nicoll's work has been steadily becoming more solidly convincing and wearable—while also getting more inventive each time. It takes some daring, for instance, to make a winter collection more or less entirely in cream and shell pink, and even more to carry it off into the kind of structured clothes, like trenchcoats and streamlined dresses, he's never really made before. But the coats, with their exaggerated storm flaps, and the slick overlays of PVC and sly references to corsetry, looked so chic they could shine on any runway of New York or Paris. And as for the color combinations, well, isn't the world already pleading for some alternative to black and gray?" (Style.com)

The blurry, black and white pieces feature prints of Fifties pin-up girls – a collaboration with the British artist Linder. (WWD)

Check out Richard Nicoll's site.

Jesseca at State + Wacker

2009-02-26T15:03:00.000-08:00

On a very stormy, gray day here in Chicago, Jesseca brightens up our dreary streets. The combination of a taupe purse with a rich blue coat makes this outfit adorable and contemporary. The coat is an amazing vintage Rothschild coat with velvet detailing, from (the now closed) Yellow Jacket vintage store.

Thelermont Hupton: Blown Ups

2009-02-26T10:56:00.001-08:00

"Thelermont Hupton is a design partnership between David Hupton and Yve Thelermont. Their work is rooted in the physical and emotional experiences of daily life. Through verbal sketches and exchanges products emerge and are resolved simply through an investigation into form, materials, and arrangement. Having studied together since 2000 at the London Metropolitan University, they launched the company at Designers Block London in 2003. With backgrounds in Fine Art and furniture making their collections include furniture, interior accessories, lighting and tableware."

Images from DVICE.

Bora Aksu: A/W 2009

2009-02-25T14:15:00.000-08:00

This is a selection of looks from Bora Aksu's beautiful collection presented at London Fashion Week. He graduated from Central Saint Martens with an MA in 2002. He has such a variety of experience and has done many interesting collaborations: Cathy Marston Project (a London contemporary dance company), Converse, Artisan Armour group (who produced props and costumes for films such as Troy, Alexander and King Arthur), and he has also "signed a contract with People Tree-Fair trade organization to design exclusive capsule collections to raise awareness on fair trade work shops."

Balenciaga: Spring 2009

2009-02-24T08:49:00.000-08:00

For Balenciaga's Spring 2009 collection Nicolas Ghesquière had a simple foundation: to explore materiality, the play between matte vs. shiny surfaces and how they react to light. I think this collection is incredible in so many ways. At times it is very subdued and futuristic, but quickly moves to being dreamy, fantastic and, for lack of a better word, digital.

The review states that the "genius of Balenciaga is Ghesquière's projection of couture techniques into the world of new technology." This collection successfully takes on the idea of new technology or futuristic clothing because: 1) the ideas are infused into the clothing and materials (as opposed to being superficially quoted - we've seen a lot of this in the past and it makes for some very cheesy collections.) and 2) there is wonderful subtlety and expert editing overall. My little piece of criticism: I'm not a fan of the pants and the models are too pale and stern looking.

See the entire collection here. Check out the beautiful campaign images on the Balenciaga site.

Gamma Player Chicago

2009-02-22T13:46:00.001-08:00

This weekend I had the pleasure of visiting Gamma Player, one of my new favorite stores here in Chicago, to take some photographs of the lovely accessories they carry to share with you. The store is owned and run by a couple, Yoko Uozumi and Jeff Mills, who are originally from the music industry. Interestingly, Gamma Player is a side project that grew out of their exposure to the rich, complex culture that exists between fashion, design, music and fine art as they pursued their careers running a record label.

First and foremost, it seems to me that Gamma Player is a place to explore ideas. I love that the store comes from a desire for conceptual investigation and ends up providing a physical space with tactile objects where the public can interact and share in the investigation. Each season, the store presents a new overarching concept with which to present the various designers they carry. In the past, artists have been commissioned to create in-store installations. The name Gamma Player comes from a song that Mills composed. According to Mills "Gamma Player means one who travels beyond boundaries. A participant in the Game of Chance who manages to the risk involved in hopes of achieving more than just a satisfactory outcome."

Gamma player is a place "where lines between fashion, art and music are blurred into a common thread in which to support new ideas that are so desperately needed." As you can see from the photographs, they carry beautiful jewelry, men's accessories, music, books, as well as men and women's fashion.

Here is just a sprinkling of designers you'll find at Gamma Player:

24/7 Suits (Milan)
Anne Valerie Hash
Chalayan
Firma (Berlin)
flos ad florem
Jogema
Julius (Japan)
Tatsuya Shida
Tre Shida

Yannick Mur: Plexivoires

2009-02-18T11:42:00.000-08:00

Plexivoires is a jewelry collection by Yannick Mur using vegetable ivory or corozo with bits of plexiglass and fine stones. Before designing jewelry, Mur was an accomplished ballerina who switched over to jewelry design after a trip to Rajasthan.

An interesting note on her use of vegetable ivory/corozo "Vegetable ivory is attractive both from an environmentalist and a humane perspective, since its use stimulates the local economies and microenterprises in South America, provides an alternative to cutting down rainforests for farming, and prevents elephants from being killed for the ivory in their tusks". (Wiki)

Armani Privé: Spring 2009

2009-02-18T09:19:00.000-08:00

Though the artistry in this collection is evident, sometimes the strength lies in the details or the parts as opposed to the whole. If you do check out the entire Armani Privé collection, I'm going to say that I'm not crazy about it but I am crazy about certain parts of it. The first image, well that's just overall a stunning dress and I love it. The second dress is also incredible with the floating quality of the intricate lacy patterns and the beautiful beige color. The third, a steel gray suit is perfect until we get to the skirt, which looks odd in contrast with the rest of the outfit. I think it needs to be a little less loose. Fourth image, slick purple suit material is amazing. The fifth and final image is a beautiful silhouette, the colors and qualities of the lacy fabric are lovely.

Chanel + Katsuya Kamo: Spring 2009 Haute Couture

2009-02-15T14:59:00.000-08:00

These are detail shots of the incredible work that hairstylist Katsuya Kamo did for Chanel's Spring 2009 Haute Couture show. All of the elaborate flower headdresses you see adorning the models are made of white office paper. Apparently "it only took him and six or seven helpers three weeks and two packets of 11 x 17 office paper"(NY Mag). Here is a link to a few images of Kamo's previous work.

Yuken Teruya Studio: Notice-Forest and Corner Forest

2009-02-14T20:05:00.000-08:00

I love this work by Yuken Teruya. It's beautiful, subtle and delicate; some of the qualities that make it so successfully subversive and political. Some of the best political work engages a viewer, instead of overtly pronouncing or preaching a message, by presenting an idea that is more complex than the critical stance the artist or the work may take.

Here is a quote from Yuken's site about his own practice:

"Pizza Boxes, a McDonald's bag, Flags, Desserts and Toilet Paper rolls... when these items become artworks, they also easily become political, maybe because they are taken from daily life. But if you find unexpected shapes and colors from the toilet rolls, they become something else. It's not about politics anymore, and you can take out the idea of toilet paper roll to your house.

Without criticizing the present, I prefer to find new clues to problems that are likely to polarize.

I feel that my work shouldn't only have the function of conveying the artist's message. My works have a right to simply be beautiful or offer any kind of attraction."

Life with Bird: First Summer Collection

2009-02-11T17:11:00.000-08:00

This is a selection of looks from Life with Bird's First Summer collection. My first thought was how surprisingly dark the overall color palette seemed. Regardless, it's a lovely collection and I'd wear all of the looks I've shown here. The diagonal banding on the leggings is reminiscent of Stella McCartney's beautifully designed athletic gear for Adidas from a few seasons back.

Sandra Backlund

2009-02-10T11:11:00.000-08:00

"I am really fascinated by all the ways you can highlight, distort and transform the natural silhouette of the body with clothes and accessories. I build my garments by hand from a couple of basic bricks which I multiply and attach to each other in different ways to discover the shape that I want. In that sense I approach fashion more like a sculptor then a tailor."

Delicious creations by Sandra Backlund. Another example of art, design and fashion coming together to create complexity and beauty. Thank you to Megan for reminding me of Backlund's fascinating work. You are seeing images from several collections; starting from the top: Pool Position, Diamond Cut Diamond, Body Skin and Hair.

Tomas Kral

2009-02-06T14:32:00.001-08:00

"The idea is to use traditional decorative techniques for crystal glass like cutting, engraving, gilding to “upgrade” existing industrial glass packaging like milk bottles or jars for tomato sauce. "

See more of Kral's lovely work here.

Hvass & Hannibal

2009-02-06T13:46:00.000-08:00

"This is an illustration we made for a new series of short stories brought in Danish Railway’s magazine Ud&Se. The story we were asked to illustrate is about routines and rituals, and how to break out of the monotony of everyday life and was written by Danish writer and artist Kasper Bonnen. "

I love these illustrations so much! Check out more work here.

Curiosity Inc.

2009-02-04T17:07:00.000-08:00

Architecture and product design are only two of the areas that Curiosity Inc. plays within. See more of their beautiful work on their site.

Universal Everything: forever

2009-01-24T13:59:00.000-08:00

The Making of Forever / Victoria & Albert Museum from Universal Everything on Vimeo.

Majo Fruithof: Collection 2009

2009-01-24T10:06:00.000-08:00

Serious jewelry by Majo Fruithof. I love how complete the aesthetic is from the insanely stunning jewelry to the perfection of the photography and styling. Everything is thought through and beautifully executed. A couple of strengths (among many) of this collection: the sculptural quality that allows each piece to live as separately without relying on the body, there is a wonderful fusion of nostalgic references to the past with the contemporary aesthetics of absolute precision and perfection. Among the many materials used, Fruithof has crafted this collection with some interesting ingredients: black iron, gold beryl, red gold and morganite.

It's hard to choose a favorite from pieces I've chosen to post from her 2009 collection, but I think for now I'll go with the black teardrop earrings... and the art deco morganite earrings... and the cuffs... Well, at least I tried!

Eternal Child: A/W 2008

2009-01-22T20:32:00.000-08:00

Maybe it was the extreme cold weather that everyone has been dealing with, but I found myself searching around for beautiful, warm clothes. You can imagine how wonderful it was to stumble upon Eternal Child during my little quest. These are sweaters made with serious attention to detail, with gorgeous colors and patterns while looking so cozy I almost want every single one in my dresser.

Miss Van

2009-01-22T20:04:00.000-08:00

A lovely little sampling of things by Miss Van. I've loved her work for a long time. These are images from her 2008 collection of work called Princesas as well as images from the darling jewelry collection that was done in collaboration with Katrin Bauer.

Hideaki Kawashima: wavering

2009-01-10T19:50:00.000-08:00

Hideaki Kawashima is one of my absolute favorite painters. Sometimes I think he may be my favorite painter, ever. Anyways, he had a show in 2008 called wavering and these are images of his latest paintings from that show. I love the simplicity and delicacy to the haunting images. They are ghostly, feminine, sometimes sea-like creatures that I could stare at all day. He is represented by Tomio Koyama Gallery. Check out their site and artists here. There is also a short article about this show, read it here.

Samsonite Black Label: Concertine, SBL by Alexander McQueen and Tartaruga

2009-01-05T20:40:00.000-08:00

I stumbled upon the amazing Samsonite Black Label and couldn't bear to decide on sharing just one collection, so here are three...

The first collection is Concertine. A small but stunning collection, the design inspiration for these purses is the concertina. Love it. When I first saw these they reminded me of a full blossomed flower or the ripe interior of a fruit such as oranges or grapefruits. I love the hybrid of aesthetic references I see, such as Japanese chrysanthemum flowers or the voluptuous and organic qualities of Art Nouveau. The images above are of the Round handbag and Half moon handbag.

SBL by Alexander McQueen is another intriguing collection. The overall shapes of the pieces are soft and, well, approachable, functional. The collection centers around Hero AI1, a suitcase modeled after a human ribcage. Hm... not so approachable treatment. The rest of the collection has a faux crocodile exterior and an interior with a feather print. The colors are gorgeous: a powdery, chalk white, as well as deep browns and rich blacks. I like this collection because it is playful but still a little dark without entering the territory of being cheesy.

The pieces I've selected here are (from the top down): Hero AI1, Spinner AI2 (it has four multi-directional wheels), Boarding Bag for Men (beautiful, classic shape), Travel Wallet (with a nice thumb print detail on the zipper).

You may have also noticed that many of these are on sale. Some items are out of stock but some aren't. If you're in the market for some extraordinary luggage or accessories this may be your chance to snag some...!

Last but not least, Tartaruga. Another leap into a different aesthetic pond. Tartaruga means turtle in Italian and Samsonite claims to have reinvented the backpack. This particular bag has a spine protector, consists of four carbon fiber shells that are hinged together to increase flexibility and has some sort of honeycomb structured foam that maximizes shock absorbency. I was seduced by the design and vibrancy of the fuschia. It's also a nice balance in contrast to the other two collections I chose with the hopes of giving you a broad sampling of what I considered to be the highlights of Samsonite's Black Label.

Gafar on North Avenue

2009-01-05T20:06:00.000-08:00

I spotted Gafar on North Avenue this past weekend. It was a pretty cold, dreary day and his sneakers were the first thing to grab my attention. I love the traditional or muted color scheme of his overall outfit punctuated by color in the form of interesting accessories and a nicely detailed denim.

He was really friendly and in addition to letting me snap several shots, he shared his story with me too. He is half Nigerian, half British, a finance student at De Paul, he's developing a clothing line, he's a dj/producer and spends a little time working downtown at the Puma store. If I get a chance to see what this fashion line is all about there may just be another post about him in the future.

Sruli Recht: Bow Ties

2009-01-02T11:19:00.001-08:00

Another post to start the new year on a lovely, fashionable foot: bow ties by Sruli Recht. Here is some interesting history about the bow tie from the Sruli Recht site:

"During the Prussian wars of the 17th century Croatian mercenaries held together the openings of their shirts around their necks with a scarf. Then adopted by the French upper class the “Cravat” was derived from the French for "Croat" to become highly popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was this Croatian scarf of combat and bloodshed that led to the Bow Tie. Here we salute its dark origins."

Read the fascinating story behind the special cotton fabric used to make this accessory here.

Candleholders by Hiroshi Tsunoda

2009-01-02T10:58:00.001-08:00

These contemplative little candleholders are designed by Hiroshi Tsunoda. Made from a single sheet of metal, it folds up to reveal a beautiful geometric structure. A wonderful example of complexity coming out of simplicity. There are four designs available online at Design Code: Lily I, Lily II, Motif I and Motif II, all shown above.

MAC (Modern Appealing Clothing)

2009-01-01T15:18:00.000-08:00

I read an article about MAC in the New York Times today and I enjoyed a quote from one of the owners so much I decided to start off the new year with a post about this store.

"The farmers honor labor. They sell the freshest stuff at its most perfect point in time. Disposable fashion is like fast food! We honor the hands that make clothes. Like ‘slow food’? We like to think of our clothes as ‘slow clothes.’ We’re not fashion victims. You want to find that jacket that is your most perfect tomato, and wear it for 20 years."

Check out the article here.

Mike + Doug Starn at David Weinberg Gallery

2008-12-15T20:23:00.000-08:00

Dear friends, I'm excited to start blogging again and what a wonderful way to start it off with the exciting announcement that I'll get to see Mike and Doug Starn's snowflake works in person. As you may remember, I talked about them a while ago when they were featured in the publication Nomenus Quarterly. As it turns out, David Weinberg Gallery here in Chicago has on display alleverythingthatisyou from October 24-January 3. I hope you'll find the time to stop by and have a look at these wonderful works.

Myoung Ho Lee: Tree

2008-08-25T20:58:00.000-07:00

A wonderful series of photographs by Myoung Ho Lee, a young artist from South Korea. "Simple in concept, complex in execution, Myoung Ho makes us look at trees, one at a time, in their natural surroundings. He isolates eich tree from its immediate environment by presenting it against an immense white canvas backdrop, creating in effect, a temporary monumental outdoor art installation." (from Foam)

A limited edition of signed prints are available online at lensculture.

Tsumori Chisato A/W 08-09

2008-08-24T08:06:00.001-07:00

See more of this insanely fantastic collection here.

Viviane Sassen

2008-08-19T20:52:00.001-07:00

Awesome fashion photography by Viviane Sassen for Mixte.

Tretorn: Skymra + T-56

2008-08-18T22:24:00.001-07:00

I love Tretorn! Check out their latest sneaker style for men, the Skymra. The Skymra comes in canvas and leather. I've also included a couple images of the T-56, a mid-cut sneaker made of soft leather with perforated detailing.

Robert Geller S/S 08 + A/W 08

2008-08-17T20:04:00.000-07:00

Selections from Robert Geller's A/W 08 Collection.

Selections from Robert Geller's S/S 08 Collection.

Coming soon to oki-ni

2008-07-18T19:13:00.000-07:00

Oki-ni will be unveiling a whole new look very, very soon with a new model/muse to showcase all their products. What I'm also very excited to see are a slew of 1 off items they will be introducing to celebrate their 7th birthday as well as the 1 year anniversary since their relaunch. They are also adding some new brands to their stable. They include: Common Projects, Tonite, Kling by Kling, as well as a special project by Wong Kar Wai for Opening Ceremony exclusively for Oki-ni!!

What you're seeing from top to bottom are shoes from Common Projects and illustrations from Kling by Kling from the Ice Scream collection SS07, VIRUS collection AW07, The Land of Dreams collection AW08.

CINA by Jason Wright-St. Clair & Leslie Leung

2008-07-13T17:28:00.000-07:00

You're seeing some really wonderful product design by CINA, a New Zealand company founded in 2007 by designers Jason Wright-St. Clair and Leslie Leung. Based in Tokyo, these two designers "share a strong vision to create beautiful design based on the concept of making everyday tasks more pleasurable." What I love about these products is the combination of simplicity and complexity in the design which points to both minimalism and the baroque, the use of repetition and pattern and the use of the latest technology and digital manufacturing (ie. laser cutting) for production. How awesome is the laser cut sink plug with the baroque wallpaper like pattern?

From top to bottom: table mat made from laser cut beech wood, coaster made from laser cut beech wood/plastic, a selection of products by CINA, sink plug made from laser cut plastic, USB drive made from laser sintered nylon, split ruler made from laser cut beech wood.

Please download their new catalog and read more here.

Hiroko Takahashi

2008-06-29T11:13:00.000-07:00

I am very excited about Hiroko Takahashi's work. I've read so many articles lamenting the disappearance of traditional Japanese culture and here is superb example of how to keep cultural history alive while maintaining relevance to the present day.

Takahashi has taken the classic kimono and using the katazome dyeing technique, dating from the Meiji period, has updated the garment with bold colors and patterns. The versatile furoshiki is also available and can be used as a bag, for gift wrap, wall hanging, scarf, tablecloth... Make sure to check out her sleeve bags too.

Check out the article from the JC Report. All items are available online at Hirocoledge.

Nomenus Quarterly: Catharine Stuart + Dries Van Noten

2008-06-28T12:08:00.000-07:00

As promised, here is another post from Nomenus Quarterly. These wonderfully delicate but vibrant watercolors of Dries Van Noten's 2008 collection were painted by Catharine Stuart.

Sruli Recht Exclusive: Ísbjörn/ Icebear

2008-06-26T13:41:00.000-07:00

I am so pleased and honored to bring you an exclusive post about a new product from Sruli Recht's studio.

Sruli Recht and Birkiland present Ísbjörn/ Icebear. This is a limited edition project of 10 rugs. Made from 15 Icelandic sheepskin, they have been cut up and sewn to mimic the diagrammatic posters that old butchers used to inform customers of what part of the animal they were buying to consume. This is a project that makes use of waste materials since the sheepskin used for these rugs are a by-product of the meat industry in Iceland.

"[W]hen you look inside a fur jacket and between the lining, the first thing you notice is this luxurious, high priced garment is made up of hundreds of tiny scraps of skin sewn together. Though it looks like one pelt on the outside, a fur garment is made of scrap and waste." A wonderful play on and commentary about the luxury fur industry "this product plays with this exact idea of waste products sold as luxury products."

As always, I'm so excited to talk about anything coming out of this studio. Inventive, witty, gorgeously designed, conceptually rich - needless to say I'm a huge fan.

Packed and ready to ship, look for Ísbjörn/ Icebear coming soon to Birkiland.

Dear friends

2008-06-26T12:35:00.001-07:00

I apologize for my time away from this blog. It's been a whirlwind month! I promise many more wonderful posts soon! Thanks again for reading.

xo

Sruli Recht + FormFast: Cutting Table No.1

2008-06-26T12:06:00.000-07:00

Absolute ingenuity. Clever as always and subtly subversive, Sruli Recht has collaborated with FormFast to produce Cutting Table No. 1. A lightweight, economical, efficiently collapsible, storage friendly table with replaceable parts. Calling all students and designers on a budget: this is a dream come true.

Read more here and here. Buy it here.

Life with Bird: A/W 08 Womens Collection

2008-05-30T14:59:00.000-07:00

As promised, here is another post about Life with Bird. I have to say I had a tough time choosing which images to post since I love the entire collection. But here are a few of my favorites.

Landscape: Patricia Urquiola for Rosenthal

2008-05-29T07:53:00.001-07:00

A beautiful tableware collection by Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola for Rosenthal. Check out the article at cool hunting. Is it also available online at unica home.

Nomenus Quarterly: Mike & Doug Starn

2008-05-19T16:14:00.000-07:00

Nomenus Quarterly is a stunning publication by Erik Madigan Heck. Here is a description taken from the site and as you'll see I'm continuing to post about interdisciplinary work (because that's really where it's at!):

"Nomenus Quarterly is a collaborative publication and platform, working with artists of all mediums and disciplines within the worlds of fine-arts and fashion... Nomenus was conceived initially as a location where commercial artists could be viewed in a more personal and intimate manner, focusing on the physical act of creation, and utilizing a more classical cannon of aesthetics. All works presented in Nomenus are created for each edition, or are previously unpublished".

I've chosen to feature works from the archive and work my way to the most recent issue. Since I've shown photographs from the first issue available online in my Maison D'Esprit post I'm posting images from a fascinating interview with artists Mike & Doug Starn.

The Starn brothers are identical twins and have been working within the space of photography, sculpture and painting. Conceptually their work has focused on exploring the representation of the cycle of time, change and age (Stephen Wirtz Gallery).

The images I've posted are from a body of work that deals with capturing snowflakes called alleverythingthatisyou. By reading the interview, you will get a sense of how long the process was to just technically make this series happen. It took five years before this body of work materialized; three years were spent experimenting and building the camera that made this possible.

I love these photographs because of the seeming permanence they give to a completely impermanent phenomenon. They are delicate, beautiful and presented in a way where they are jewel like. This last quality was an interesting entry point into fashion I thought. As I looked at the images I chose to post, I started thinking about how much they look like little jewels and started referencing even something as specific as Tiffany's style of presenting jewelry.

Please visit the publication online to discover more and look out for more posts about Nomenus very soon.

Tsumori Chisato: S/S 08 Collection

2008-05-17T15:46:00.001-07:00

I could have posted every single outfit from Tsumori Chisato's S/S 08 Collection. She is one of my favorite designers.

See more from this wonderful collection at Elle.com.

Linda Farrow Sunglasses for Raf Simons at oki-ni

2008-05-15T07:40:00.001-07:00

Coming soon to oki-ni...